This brilliant neo-bistro lives up to its word-of-mouth reputation. Run by an English chef, it is this Fall’s newest surprise, with its local and ethnic dishes, made with great precision, often unexpected, and all served in a relaxed and contemporary space. Label Rouge salmon, miso, cucumber pickles, horseradish yogurt, nori; lean roast beef, pan-fried young greens, sesame rice, chestnut crumble, verbena emulsion, parsley. Attentive service and reasonable prices.
Cromesquis of Nantes-style headcheese, kimchi mayonnaise, mustard pickles.
Lamb from Sologne, arugula gnocchi, celeriac purée – star anise, braised red cabbage.
Tapioca pudding with coconut milk, confit butternut squash preserved in spices, suprêmes of orange.