It required a good dose of confidence and daring to follow in the footsteps of La Raffinerie in the already well-packed Rue Fouré. These are two qualities clearly demonstrated by Romain Bonnet, a young chef with an engaging career (Pierre Gagnaire’s Le Balzac***, La Scène Thélème*, Le Manoir de la Boulaie*), who conquers diners with plates of impressive gustatory prowess and creativity. He serves a modern cuisine (even when it’s a traditional hare à la royale) that achieves a subtle balance from the play of flavours and textures.
Loctudy spider crab with Amontillado and Jerusalem artichokes lightly infused with mint
Maison Burgaud duck cooked on a bed of walnut shells and served with parsnip spears, pear flambéed with home-made walnut brandy and a Maltese dressing
Yunnan tea-infused tangerine cream éclair